Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

GUIDE: Auto to Manual Conversion


  • Please log in to reply
26 replies to this topic

#1 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:51 PM

I just found this guide which hadn't been finished, I haven't gone through it too thoroughly so if you see anything wrong/worth adding then comment and I'll put it in....

 

I can safely say, having done both, it is MUCH easier to pull the engine when doing a box swap unless you have a nice hydraulic lift!

The things you will need to convert your auto Supra to a manual are:

 

1. An R154 manual gearbox (You can do W58 too from an NA but this is based around a turbo box being fitted)
2. A flywheel (and 6 bolts)
3. The lower mounting brackets that attach the bell housing to the engine
4. The master and slave clyinders + pipework
5. Smaller brake pedal from a manual car and the clutch pedal
6. Front section of the prop shaft from a manual car
7. The cover plate between the engine and 'box
8. A clutch (friction disc, pressure plate, bolts, fork and release bearing)
9. A pilot/spigot bearing (the manual cars have a bearing on the end of the crank, autos don't have this)

 

You should get new clutch and flywheel bolts really

 

All the holes are pre-drilled so you don't have any major work in that regard, it is all just bolt on. You can easily do this in a weekend or if you're quick in a day.



#2 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:56 PM


Step 1 - Starting inside the car, remove the centre console (see fitting a turbo timer from steps 16)

 

Step 2 - Slacken the bolt on the sump of the auto box and drain out the fluid (nice red fluid on this one, it can often be black if not looked after). Note there will

still be fluid in the torque converter (which is the equivalent of a clutch)

 



#3 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:57 PM

Step 3 - Drop the exhaust to gain access to the centre bearing of the prop. I would recommend you take the whole exhaust off but certainly from the turbo back to the mid section at the least

 

 

Step 4 - Using two 14mm spanners, remove the 4 nuts/bolts holding the prop front/rear sections together as shown

 

 

Step 5 - Unplug the connectors running up the nearside of the car and also the speedo cable (a spanner holding the end closes to the box and some mole grips will allow you to unscrew it at the accessible joint, not right on the  box)

 




#4 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:57 PM


Step 6 - Support the auto box on a jack and remove the rear transmission mount (4x12mm bolts), note the earth connection as shown

 

 

Step 7 - Remove the rear stiffening bar (picture 1) which is held on with two 14mm bolts and the two 14mm bolts holding the front section of the prop up (picture 2)

 




#5 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:57 PM

Step 8 - You should be able to slide the front section of the prop out of the gearbox and pull it clear of the car now

 




#6 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:58 PM

Step 9 - Start working your way around the bellhousing removing all the accessible bolts (14mm and there are 10 in total). Note the starter is a nut/bolt affair so make sure you use two spanners here! I have tried to take some pictures of where they are but you'll see them when you're on the car!
 
MCGStep9a.jpg
MCGStep9b.jpg
MCGStep9c.jpg
MCGStep9d.jpg
MCGStep9e.jpg
MCGStep9f.jpg
MCGStep9g.jpg
MCGStep9h.jpg

#7 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:58 PM

Step 10 - Once you have done all the bolts you can access (there will be three IIRC that are difficult against the bulkhead which we will leave for a mo) we move on to the fluid lines, disconnect them from the box. The transmission housing under cover can be removed here (the metal plate between the box and engine)

 

 

Step 11 - Work along the lines disconnecting the 10mm bolts holding the clamps in place so you can remove the lines (disconnect at the rad too)

 





#8 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:58 PM


Step 12 - The hard lines take some persuasion to get off the car without damage, just take your time and wriggle them out

 

 

Step 13 - The throttle linkage is different between auto and manual, you need to remove the cable to the box (picture 1/2) and remove the bracket (picture 3) which is held on with two 14mm bolts. Note you need this bracket if you are selling the auto box to someone with a manual car, if you are going auto to manual then you can leave the original bracket on and just disconnect the throttle cable.

 





#9 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:59 PM

Step 14 - Engine mounts are a bit of a weak point now so remove the two 19mm nuts at the bottom of them before you start moving the engine/box around. This will allow you to tilt the back of the box down (and the engine back)

 

 

Step 15 - Drop the back of the box down (picture 1) and you will be able to access the upper bell housing bolts (picture 2)

 




#10 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:59 PM


Step 16 - The box will take some wriggling at the tail shaft to make it separate from the engine so make sure you have suitable supports under it when it does let go (don't squash yourself!). Once the box separates you will see the torque converter which will probably be dropping flui due to the angle of the engine (picture 1).

 

Remove the box from the car, note you will need to get the car up quite high to get the box out

 


 

Step 17 - Lock the flexplate (the toothed wheel behind the torque converter which is the equivalent to a flywheel), with a pry bar and remove the six 14mm bolts holding the torque converter on. Note you should crack them all off before removing them and they will be tight but once freed come off with your fingers

 

Be aware the torque converter is quite heavy so have someone ready to catch it when you remove the bolts!

 



#11 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:59 PM


Step 18 - Repeat the process for the six 17mm flexplate bolts, note the flexplate has been locked by pushing a pry bar through it

 

 

Step 19 - Pop off the flex plate which has an inner and outer spacer

 

 

Step 20 - You should have quite a pile of bits you don't need now!

 



#12 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:00 AM


Step 21 - Here you can see that the manual has a shorter front section of the prop and the second picture shows the auto box being longer

 


 

Step 22 - Follow the guide for turbo timer fitment to see how to gain access to the ECU, if you are moving from an auto ECU/box to a manual box then you can just leave the ECU alone. If you are fitting an auto box then you will need an auto ECU (or to solder in a resistor).

 



#13 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:00 AM


Step 23 - You will need to unplug the auto box ECU from the passenger kick panel, this isn't needed for a proper gearbox ;)

 


 

Step 24 - You will need to fit a spigot bearing (ignore the grease and punch shown in the picture, this is if you are removing it like we were - secretly this was a manual to auto conversion believe it or not!!). Note that you may need to clean up the nose of the crank before fitting the bearing (light sane will do this)

 




#14 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:00 AM


Step 25 - Get the car up nice and high and well supported then slide your manual gearbox under the car

 

 

Step 26 - Two 14mm bolts hold the 'wings' which bolt the bottom of the bellhousing onto the engine, switch these over (manual one is the dirty looking one!)

 

 

Step 27 - Jack the gearbox up and smile whilst bolting up the bell housing bolts (ignore the fact it looke like the car was sitting on thyres at this stage, it really was secure like I showed in step 25 and it didn't topple over once ... honest.)

 



#15 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:01 AM


Step 28 - At this stage, if you're lying upside down in the footwell changing the pedals over be aware of other people who may wipe oily hands on your stomach. Seriously, this happened. Thankfully Mel took the pictures of the pedal swap so hopefully this tells you all you need to know:

 


 

Step 29 - See the short shift guide for fitting the shifter back in once the box is in place

 

 

Step 30 - Then just plug in the connectors from step 5 and you're done



#16 clutch

clutch

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 230 posts
  • LocationRed Lodge
  • Real Name:Joe

Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:24 AM

Was wanting to know if your reverse light worked on this afterwards as I done the swap and the wiring has changed up so was wanting to know if you have this problem and if so did you get it fixed and working and what the remedy was for it?



Other than that I think it is an awesome guide!

#17 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:56 AM

 

I couldn't remember! I had a note to myself at the end of the guide saying that the round plug with 3 wires from step 5 (white, black, and blue) needed to have the blue wire connected to the 2 pin plug off the manual box along with the black wire of the 6 pin round plug



#18 karmasupra

karmasupra

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts
  • Locationmanchester
  • Real Name:roni

Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:07 PM

the wings for the bell housing, do you have to have these too as list of parts needed, and ecu needed to be changed to a manual one too



#19 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:16 PM

They are item number 3 on the list mate and no you don't need a manual ECU but thanks for the comment

#20 karmasupra

karmasupra

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts
  • Locationmanchester
  • Real Name:roni

Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:21 PM

i'm a little confused james about ecu's, i'm only asking this as i have this job coming up very soon on my car, if you take auto ecu out what runs engine, and with the auto ecu having higher tick over for gearbox wouldnt a man ecu lower this



#21 Phil_w

Phil_w

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 403 posts
  • LocationChesterfield
  • Real Name:Phil

Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:38 PM

The Auto car has 2 ECU's, a main one and a little Auto one. The one you remove is the Auto one, as far as i remember it controls the 'box so it will only start in Neutral and Park? Not needed when it's a manual, and it won't run with it connected!



#22 karmasupra

karmasupra

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 65 posts
  • Locationmanchester
  • Real Name:roni

Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:10 PM

is this the same with a 1g-gte



#23 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:25 PM

Exactly as Phil describes, there is a separate ECU as per the guide which you bypass

Unfortunately by knowledge of the 1G is about as vast as my knowledge on Russian Ballet. And no, I don't know anything about Russian ballet.

#24 JSeaman

JSeaman

    CEO

  • Member of the Board
  • 3,861 posts
  • LocationDerbyshire
  • Real Name:James

Posted 23 April 2013 - 03:29 PM

Step 31 - If you need to frig the reverse lights then you have two wires that come from the switch (the switch is near the top on the driver's side of the 'box). These need to be linked to

the following:

 

- On the 6 pin plug, the yellow wire gives 12 Volts via the 'Gauge' fuse
- On the 3 pin plug the red/black wire goes to the reverse lights

 

Cut both yellow and red/black wires and join them to the reverse light wires (it doesn't matter which way round)

 

MGStep31a.jpg
MGStep31b.jpg
MGStep31c.jpg
MGStep31d.jpg
MGStep31e.jpg



#25 slowma70

slowma70

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 17 posts
  • LocationAuckland, New Zealand
  • Real Name:Adeel

Posted 11 June 2014 - 04:32 AM

James does the auto trans mounting bracket fit the r154 or is a manual one required.


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users