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JSeaman

GUIDE: Auto to Manual Conversion

27 posts in this topic

I just found this guide which hadn't been finished, I haven't gone through it too thoroughly so if you see anything wrong/worth adding then comment and I'll put it in....

 

I can safely say, having done both, it is MUCH easier to pull the engine when doing a box swap unless you have a nice hydraulic lift!

The things you will need to convert your auto Supra to a manual are:

 

1. An R154 manual gearbox (You can do W58 too from an NA but this is based around a turbo box being fitted)
2. A flywheel (and 6 bolts)
3. The lower mounting brackets that attach the bell housing to the engine
4. The master and slave clyinders + pipework
5. Smaller brake pedal from a manual car and the clutch pedal
6. Front section of the prop shaft from a manual car
7. The cover plate between the engine and 'box
8. A clutch (friction disc, pressure plate, bolts, fork and release bearing)
9. A pilot/spigot bearing (the manual cars have a bearing on the end of the crank, autos don't have this)

 

You should get new clutch and flywheel bolts really

 

All the holes are pre-drilled so you don't have any major work in that regard, it is all just bolt on. You can easily do this in a weekend or if you're quick in a day.

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Step 1 - Starting inside the car, remove the centre console (see fitting a turbo timer from steps 16)

MCGStep1.jpg

 

Step 2 - Slacken the bolt on the sump of the auto box and drain out the fluid (nice red fluid on this one, it can often be black if not looked after). Note there will

still be fluid in the torque converter (which is the equivalent of a clutch)

 

MCGStep2.jpg

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Step 3 - Drop the exhaust to gain access to the centre bearing of the prop. I would recommend you take the whole exhaust off but certainly from the turbo back to the mid section at the least

 

MCGStep3.jpg

 

Step 4 - Using two 14mm spanners, remove the 4 nuts/bolts holding the prop front/rear sections together as shown

 

MCGStep4.jpg

 

Step 5 - Unplug the connectors running up the nearside of the car and also the speedo cable (a spanner holding the end closes to the box and some mole grips will allow you to unscrew it at the accessible joint, not right on the  box)

 

MCGStep5a.jpg
MCGStep5b.jpg

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Step 6 - Support the auto box on a jack and remove the rear transmission mount (4x12mm bolts), note the earth connection as shown

 

MCGStep6.jpg

 

Step 7 - Remove the rear stiffening bar (picture 1) which is held on with two 14mm bolts and the two 14mm bolts holding the front section of the prop up (picture 2)

 

MCGStep7a.jpg
MCGStep7b.jpg

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Step 8 - You should be able to slide the front section of the prop out of the gearbox and pull it clear of the car now

 

MCGStep8a.jpg
MCGStep8b.jpg

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Step 9 - Start working your way around the bellhousing removing all the accessible bolts (14mm and there are 10 in total). Note the starter is a nut/bolt affair so make sure you use two spanners here! I have tried to take some pictures of where they are but you'll see them when you're on the car!

 

MCGStep9a.jpg

MCGStep9b.jpg

MCGStep9c.jpg

MCGStep9d.jpg

MCGStep9e.jpg

MCGStep9f.jpg

MCGStep9g.jpg

MCGStep9h.jpg

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Step 10 - Once you have done all the bolts you can access (there will be three IIRC that are difficult against the bulkhead which we will leave for a mo) we move on to the fluid lines, disconnect them from the box. The transmission housing under cover can be removed here (the metal plate between the box and engine)

 

MCGStep10.jpg

 

Step 11 - Work along the lines disconnecting the 10mm bolts holding the clamps in place so you can remove the lines (disconnect at the rad too)

 

MCGStep11a.jpg
MCGStep11b.jpg
MCGStep11c.jpg

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Step 12 - The hard lines take some persuasion to get off the car without damage, just take your time and wriggle them out

 

MCGStep12.jpg

 

Step 13 - The throttle linkage is different between auto and manual, you need to remove the cable to the box (picture 1/2) and remove the bracket (picture 3) which is held on with two 14mm bolts. Note you need this bracket if you are selling the auto box to someone with a manual car, if you are going auto to manual then you can leave the original bracket on and just disconnect the throttle cable.

 

MCGStep13a.jpg
MCGStep13b.jpg
MCGStep13c.jpg

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Step 14 - Engine mounts are a bit of a weak point now so remove the two 19mm nuts at the bottom of them before you start moving the engine/box around. This will allow you to tilt the back of the box down (and the engine back)

 

MCGStep14.jpg

 

Step 15 - Drop the back of the box down (picture 1) and you will be able to access the upper bell housing bolts (picture 2)

 

MCGStep15a.jpg
MCGStep15b.jpg

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Step 16 - The box will take some wriggling at the tail shaft to make it separate from the engine so make sure you have suitable supports under it when it does let go (don't squash yourself!). Once the box separates you will see the torque converter which will probably be dropping flui due to the angle of the engine (picture 1).

 

Remove the box from the car, note you will need to get the car up quite high to get the box out

 

MCGStep16a.jpg
MCGStep16b.jpg

 

Step 17 - Lock the flexplate (the toothed wheel behind the torque converter which is the equivalent to a flywheel), with a pry bar and remove the six 14mm bolts holding the torque converter on. Note you should crack them all off before removing them and they will be tight but once freed come off with your fingers

 

Be aware the torque converter is quite heavy so have someone ready to catch it when you remove the bolts!

 

MCGStep17.jpg

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Step 18 - Repeat the process for the six 17mm flexplate bolts, note the flexplate has been locked by pushing a pry bar through it

 

MCGStep18.jpg

 

Step 19 - Pop off the flex plate which has an inner and outer spacer

 

MCGStep19.jpg

 

Step 20 - You should have quite a pile of bits you don't need now!

 

MCGStep20.jpg

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Step 21 - Here you can see that the manual has a shorter front section of the prop and the second picture shows the auto box being longer

 

MCGStep21a.jpg
MCGStep21b.jpg

 

Step 22 - Follow the guide for turbo timer fitment to see how to gain access to the ECU, if you are moving from an auto ECU/box to a manual box then you can just leave the ECU alone. If you are fitting an auto box then you will need an auto ECU (or to solder in a resistor).

 

MCGStep22.jpg

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Step 23 - You will need to unplug the auto box ECU from the passenger kick panel, this isn't needed for a proper gearbox ;)

 

MCGStep23a.jpg
MCGStep23b.jpg

 

Step 24 - You will need to fit a spigot bearing (ignore the grease and punch shown in the picture, this is if you are removing it like we were - secretly this was a manual to auto conversion believe it or not!!). Note that you may need to clean up the nose of the crank before fitting the bearing (light sane will do this)

 

MCGStep24a.jpg
MCGStep24b.jpg

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Step 25 - Get the car up nice and high and well supported then slide your manual gearbox under the car

 

MCGStep25.jpg

 

Step 26 - Two 14mm bolts hold the 'wings' which bolt the bottom of the bellhousing onto the engine, switch these over (manual one is the dirty looking one!)

 

MCGStep26.jpg

 

Step 27 - Jack the gearbox up and smile whilst bolting up the bell housing bolts (ignore the fact it looke like the car was sitting on thyres at this stage, it really was secure like I showed in step 25 and it didn't topple over once ... honest.)

 

MCGStep27.jpg

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Step 28 - At this stage, if you're lying upside down in the footwell changing the pedals over be aware of other people who may wipe oily hands on your stomach. Seriously, this happened. Thankfully Mel took the pictures of the pedal swap so hopefully this tells you all you need to know:

 

MCGStep28a.jpg
MCGStep28b.jpg

 

Step 29 - See the short shift guide for fitting the shifter back in once the box is in place

 

MCGStep29.jpg

 

Step 30 - Then just plug in the connectors from step 5 and you're done

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Was wanting to know if your reverse light worked on this afterwards as I done the swap and the wiring has changed up so was wanting to know if you have this problem and if so did you get it fixed and working and what the remedy was for it?

Other than that I think it is an awesome guide!

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I couldn't remember! I had a note to myself at the end of the guide saying that the round plug with 3 wires from step 5 (white, black, and blue) needed to have the blue wire connected to the 2 pin plug off the manual box along with the black wire of the 6 pin round plug

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the wings for the bell housing, do you have to have these too as list of parts needed, and ecu needed to be changed to a manual one too

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They are item number 3 on the list mate and no you don't need a manual ECU but thanks for the comment

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i'm a little confused james about ecu's, i'm only asking this as i have this job coming up very soon on my car, if you take auto ecu out what runs engine, and with the auto ecu having higher tick over for gearbox wouldnt a man ecu lower this

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The Auto car has 2 ECU's, a main one and a little Auto one. The one you remove is the Auto one, as far as i remember it controls the 'box so it will only start in Neutral and Park? Not needed when it's a manual, and it won't run with it connected!

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Exactly as Phil describes, there is a separate ECU as per the guide which you bypass

Unfortunately by knowledge of the 1G is about as vast as my knowledge on Russian Ballet. And no, I don't know anything about Russian ballet.

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Step 31 - If you need to frig the reverse lights then you have two wires that come from the switch (the switch is near the top on the driver's side of the 'box). These need to be linked to

the following:

 

- On the 6 pin plug, the yellow wire gives 12 Volts via the 'Gauge' fuse
- On the 3 pin plug the red/black wire goes to the reverse lights

 

Cut both yellow and red/black wires and join them to the reverse light wires (it doesn't matter which way round)

 

MGStep31a.jpg
MGStep31b.jpg
MGStep31c.jpg
MGStep31d.jpg
MGStep31e.jpg

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James does the auto trans mounting bracket fit the r154 or is a manual one required.

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